Metelkova is an urban cultural area and autonomous district in central Ljubljana, a place to experience the city’s alternative arts and music scene. See artists working in their studios, watch live music performances and attend wide-ranging festivals. The site evolved in 1993 when about 200 volunteers squatted in the one-time barracks of the Slovenian headquarters of the Yugoslav National Army to prevent the building’s demolition.

During the day, stroll between refurbished military buildings in this sleepy community. Examine the graffiti-clad walls and open-air art installations. Chat with artists to understand the philosophy behind this unique city-within-a-city. Appreciate the stark contrast between this district and the neat, cobblestone streets of Ljubljana’s historic center.

Visit the Alkatraz Gallery, a non-profit institution housed in the barracks’ old stable. It puts on experimental exhibits by both national and international artists. Mizzart Gallery hosts a second-hand market and child-friendly workshops. Enjoy people-watching opportunities at the gallery’s café. Stop at the National Museum of Slovenia’s Metelkova Branch to see toys, furniture, weapons and other examples of applied arts through Slovenia’s history.

At night, Metelkova becomes Slovenia’s principal destination for alternative culture, filling with a mix of bohemians, musicians and curious tourists. Find clubs dedicated to cinema, literature and performing arts. A busy concert schedule includes everything from dub, hip-hop and reggae to heavy metal, punk and rock. Mingle at street-side bars and the Square with no Historic Memory, where outdoor performances often occur.

Year-round festivals deliver further alternative art forms and the chance for minority groups to express themselves freely. Attend March’s International Feminist and Queer Festival Red Dawns which explores transgressing gender roles.

For the complete Metelkova experience, stay overnight at the Celica Hostel inside the barracks’ prison building. About 80 Slovene and foreign artists, including Anthony Gormley, cooperated to create this space.

Located north of Ljubljanica River, Metelkova is a 10-minute walk from Ljubljana’s central train station and a 15-minute walk from Prešeren Square. Nearby are many art, cinematic, ethnographic and history museums.

Free and ticketed events take place year-round in Metelkova. Find a schedule on the district’s official Slovenian language website.