Free-wheeling on the Wild Atlantic Way
Ireland’s iconic coastal route takes in 1,600 miles of dramatic cliffs, cozy pubs, sacred sites and harbor towns. Here’s our guide to making the most of this life-changing drive
Road-tripping is always a magical way to travel, but Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way is almost supernaturally special. As a Belfast-born travel writer, no matter how dazzled I am by new and exciting destinations around the world, I’m still drawn to Ireland’s west coast for its trad music sessions in cozy pubs, picnics in ancient woodland, blustery strolls along awe-inspiring cliffs—and memorable stays at luxurious castle hotels or quirky lighthouse lodgings. Here are my highlights…
Beyond-the-ordinary beaches
From pounding surf to powdery golden sands, this road trip offers wildly different renditions of a “beautiful beach.” Driving north-south, the bar is set immediately at Donegal’s Ballymastocker Bay (also known as Portsalon Beach), a golden swathe of sand on the western shore of Lough Swilly. Further south, Sligo is sheer paradise for surfers; Mullaghmore and Strandhill are particularly popular and Strandhill recently opened Ireland’s first National Surf Centre. In County Clare, near the awe-inspiring Cliffs of Moher, Clahane beach is a more peaceful and family-friendly swimming nook, where dolphins are often sighted. In Connemara, the silky white sand of Dog’s Bay near Roundstone is a true treat. Down on the Dingle Peninsula, rugged Coumeenoole is the jewel in the crown of Slea Head Drive, a particularly picturesque stretch of the W.A.W.
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Fine dining and seafood shacks
The Wild Atlantic Way is one of the world’s longest coastal drives. It’s also a culinary odyssey through some of the island’s best food experiences, from freshly shucked oysters in Galway to the artisan cheeses of Kerry, and from seafood beach shacks in Donegal to fine dining in Cork.
Up north, the charming port of Dunfanaghy makes a great pit stop, with cult sourdough pizzeria the Rusty Oven and pottery café Muck’n’Muffins. Near the cliffs of Slieve League is the popular Rusty Mackerel, which specializes in seafood chowder.
Driving south, refuel in the surf town of Strandhill with tapas at Stoked and coffee and cake at Shells Café. In Galway, feast on fresh seafood at beach shacks like Misunderstood Heron before you reach Michelin-starred eateries like Aniar in the famously food-obessed Galway city. In Dingle, make a pilgrimage to The Little Cheese Shop before picnicking on the nearby Blasket Islands.
Kinsale in West Cork is another foodie haven, with Michelin-starred Bastion and celebrity restaurateurs Martin and Marie Shanahan’s Fishy Fishy, where they can tell you the name of the fisherman who caught what’s on your plate.
Dramatic scenes
Cliffs, waterfalls, glacial fjords and sweeping beaches await on this wildly varied romp through Ireland’s natural scenery. Europe’s highest accessible cliffs are found at Slieve League in Donegal; watch out for the northern lights dancing in clear winter skies.
Driving south into Mayo, Downpatrick Head is a 148-foot-high sea stack nested with cormorants and puffins, while island-dotted Clew Bay offers more serene coastal scenery.
The 10-mile glacial ford of Killary Harbor forms the border between counties Mayo and Galway, while astonishing scenery awaits at Galway’s Cliffs of Moher (which you may even recognise from Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince). And veer inland from Ennistymon to walk the glen to Ennistymon Cascades, Ireland’s most scenic waterfalls.
The northern lights: Now’s the time
Unmissable experiences
Whether you’re craving adrenaline-spiking adventure or soul-nourishing self-care, Ireland’s west coast delivers. Sink into the iodine-rich waters at swish Voya Seaweed Baths in Strandhill, or try this traditional cure (said to help everything from arthritis to a Guinness hangover) at a historic bathhouse like Kilcullen’s Seaweed Baths in Enniscrone, or in one of Wild Atlantic Seaweed Baths’ mobile whisky-barrel tubs.
Perhaps try kite-surfing or paddle boarding on Achill Island, and don’t miss a boat trip off Ireland’s southwestern tip, on a visit to Skellig Michael, a jagged rock sticking out of the Atlantic Ocean, just as famous for its Star Wars appearance as its UNESCO status. Got a food or music obsession? Time your visit with Galway International Oyster Festival or Clifden Arts Festival (both in September), among Ireland’s many wonderful food and culture events.
Anna Hart is a culture writer specializing in adventure travel and positive-impact tourism. Her work has appeared in Vogue, The Wall Street Journal, and The New York Times, and she is the author of the travel memoir Departures.
