Doris made us very welcome in this beautiful, well appointed apartment near the main square, castle and cathedral. Despite its central position, and being Palio week, the apartment was quiet. Ferrara is a walled city of bikes and pedestrians with limited access for cars in its most ancient cobbled street. It is simply one of the most beautiful cities I've visited and being able to just step outside to find amazing buildings and discover a fascinating history was a joy. Good restaurants serving local food, interesting shops and markets, and cafes where you could watch the world go by. Recommend the pizza place next door and Le Due Comari.
Procession/performance in the streets and main square on the evening we arrived, for the beginning of Palio week, was outstanding. Watching from the front door was a bonus.
Ali Smith's book 'How to Be Both', featuring frescos in Palazzo Schifanoia, and Giorgio Bassani's 'Garden of the Finzi-Contini' , set in Ferrara in the 1930's. inspired my visit to Ferrara and happy hours were spent finding the places mentioned on those pages. Recommend them if you plan a visit. City splits neatly into the mediaeval and renaissance addition and a map from the tourist office suggests interesting themed walks.
Archaeology museum, housed like many others in an old palazzo, was a revelation as it displayed, very creatively, the artefacts from 6th Century Etruscan town of Spina, discovered in 1922 during draining of the Po Delta.
The Jewish cemetery and museum, small monasteries and the Palazzo Diamanti are well worth visiting but there is much pleasure in just walking the streets and enjoying the Italian life.
The only negatives: Free Ferrara wifi is a myth, unless you have an Italian phone number, and we couldn't connect to Doris's mobile modem despite her efforts. No wifi was no real problem but you might want to organise a package if important. Vodaphone shop helped us check in flight online but Bologna airport has no print out machine so don't arrive late! In city, buses but no bus service to other towns or the coast. Tourist office said taxi, car or bike! Slow train to the coast means you have to return in an hour. Planned a trip to Bologna but there was a rail strike so we decided there was certainly more than enough to do in Ferrara! But will hire car for next time to explore area.
Overall, a great apartment, memorable breakfast treat with lovely Doris in her favourite café and made to feel truly welcome. Wonderful