With a collection that boasts of Milan’s long artistic history, the Museo Poldi Pezzoli, set in a palace whose walls were built by those artists, is a window into the Milanese spirit. As you wander from room to room during your visit to Museo Poldi Pezzoli you’ll feel a bit like a rogue guest at a party who has set off on an exploration of their host’s home.
Originally the private collection of a late 19th-century collector and his mother, the villa and its contents were donated to the city and opened to the public in 1881. The 18th-century villa presents more than 5,000 pieces of art across more than a dozen rooms, many of which were decorated to match the objects presented in them.
Get a sense of Milan’s pride in its military past in the Armoury, which was recently redesigned by the contemporary artist Arnaldo Pomodoro. Take in the elaborate decorations on the guns, swords and daggers that hang on the wall. These artifacts demonstrate the importance of warfare to Milanese life over the centuries. Admire the delicate faces and elaborate machinery of the enormous collection of timepieces displayed in the watch room, with their subtle but luxurious decorations.
Notice as you explore the museum the naturalistic settings of the paintings that hang on the wall, which seem more like those in a private home than in a museum. Walk up and down the antique staircases, which are sometimes crowned with stained glass windows. Bask in the shimmering light of the Golden Room, with Antonio Pollaiuolo’s Portrait of a Young Woman, the delicate profile long a symbol of Milanese taste and panache.
Museo Poldi Pezzoli is located in the northeastern section of central Milan, in the Montenapoleone district. Take the subway from Milano Centrale in 8 minutes, drive in 20 minutes or walk in half an hour. The museum closes on Tuesdays, but is open the rest of the week from mid-morning to early evening. Access is by admission fee. There is a free audio guide available in English.