I am the definition of a frequent flyer, typically spending 150+ days a year on the road (mostly business, but my wife joins me, for business and pleasure, 2-3 weeks a year). I’ve stayed at many of the world’s top rated resorts and hotels, as well as rental properties. I have enjoyed a mere handful as much as I did at Paulo’s.
From the moment he met us to check us in, with a grocery bag full of goodies in hand, he was a wonderful and gracious host.
The property, meanwhile, is astounding. There’s the main building, with two bedrooms (and bunk beds allowing for up to 8, if you want to get cozy), and a surprisingly roomy and well-equipped kitchen. I wish we’d gotten around to using the wood-fires pizza oven but we used everything else.
The large and completely private garden patio, with raised dining deck, would. E enough to satisfy most travelers...but when you open the back door you discover a yard that extends several 100 yards back to the ledge overlooking the ocean, with a path leading to the natural pools where you can take a dip. There is also a partially enclosed (and covered) patio room where you can stretch out with a local gin and tonic and enjoy watching the sun go down.
(One of the delights is that the spit of land sticks out just far enough that you can go down to the rocky ledge and see both sunsets and sunrises!
We’ve seldom stayed “on premises” as much as we did here...
...but when we did venture out we were delighted by what we discovered, realizing that those who are calling the Azores the new “IT” vacation spot are right on the money.
No, it doesn’t have the night life or the art scene of a Barcelona or Portugal’s Algarve...which some will find a good thing. The cuisine scene is surprising good, and delightfully affordable. (And if you use Paulo’s Kitchen, the local Continente markets are very well stocked). Seafood is plentiful, as you expect, and it is worth trying some of the local specialties, like the limpets, bacalhao and wreckfish, but there are also restaurants specializing in the very good local beef and sausages and cheeses
There is great hiking and biking, even kayaking in a vast volcanic crater lake. Furnas, as the town’s name suggests, has thermal steam baths.
Another pleasant discovery: surprisingly affordable rental cars.
Which brings me back to our rental, perfectly situated to go exploring — or to simply relax.
This was a find of a lifetime — even for a jaded veteran traveler.